Aquarium and stand

Nowadays, aquariums come in all different shapes and sizes.  Take some time to think about where you will position your tank.  Remember that the tank may need space behind for pipes and wires. Also, the tank will need an electricity supply so locate the tank close to sockets.  Generally, avoid placing your tank near sources of noise or heat, such as televisions, radiators or windows.  If placing a larger tank upstairs, be confident that the floor boards can cope with the weight!

If you are buying a tank with the intention of keeping particular fish, do a little research and check that the tank will be big enough to house them when fully grown.  For example, clown loaches may look small when young but will require a tank which holds  in excess of 100 gallons of water!

Bearing in mind the weight of the tank once substrate and water have been added, seriously consider buying the stand which has been designed to accommodate your tank.  This would be particularly important for 20+ gallon tanks.  In addition, a specially designed stand will have space for equipment such as an external filter.

Filter

A filter will be an essential part of your aquarium set up as it will help maintain water quality.  There are two main  types of filters: internal and external.

Internal filters, as the name suggests, will occupy a fair amount of internal tank space.  They are less expensive and easier to set up.  External filters are located outside (usually underneath or hang on to the side) of the tank.  Inside the tank will be two pipes which remove and return water to the tank.

Choice of filter comes down largely to budget and personal preference with regards to the appearance of your tank.  The key thing is to choose a filter which will cope with the volume of water in your tank.

Heater

In order to keep tropical fish, you will need a heater.  There are a lot of different heaters available.  Again, choose a heater which is suitable for heating the volume of water in your tank.  The standard submersible heater sticks onto the inside of the tank and has a thermostat built in so that you can set the temperature (most tropical fish enjoy temperatures between 24 and 26 degrees C) and the heater will maintain a constant temperature.  Another option is an in-line heater which sits in the outflow pipe of an external filter.  This option keeps the amount of equipment inside the aquarium to a minimum.

Thermometer

A thermometer is essential.  It will allow you to monitor the water temperature.  Don’t rely on your heater’s thermostat!  There are many thermometers out there which range from submersible digital thermometers to glass spirit thermometers.  Also available are digital thermometers which adhere to the exterior.  Choose according to personal preference and budget.

Lighting

Lighting is an important factor to consider and will be used for 12 hours every day.  Always use specialist aquarium lighting.  Often lighting is included as part of an aquarium package.  The t8 or t5 tubes should be suitable for most freshwater aquaria.  However, f your aquarium is deep (60cm/24″) opt for something more powerful than t8’s which will penetrate the depth of your tank – consider t5’s or, even better, metal halides.

Syphon and bucket

A syphon is another essential purchase.  You will need to remove roughly 10% of your tanks volume of water every week.  Some fish (such as discus or fry), will require much more frequent water changes – even daily.  A syphon will enable you to change the required amount of water (remember to add a dechlorinator if using tap water or reconstitute reverse osmosis water as appropriate.

Substrate

Most aquariums have a substrate which covers the base of the aquarium.  Choice of substrate can impact on the water quality.  For example, crushed coral will raise the pH level of the water.  However, peat moss will have the opposite effect and lower the pH.  In addition, some fish will prefer a particular substrate.  If you know which fish you will keep, they may inform your substrate decision.  Another factor to consider is plants.  If you wish to achieve a successful planted tank, look into specialist fertilizing substrates.  Finally, consider the visual aesthetics of your tank and your own personal preference.

Water

Quality water is key to happy and healthy fish.  Before filling your tank, consider the requirements of your future fish.  If you live in a hardwater area and wish to keep fish which prefer softer water (or vice versa), tap water may not be ideal.  Reverse osmosis (RO) water can be bought from many fish retailers or produced at home.  RO water has had impurities removed.  However, the process of removal also removes essential minerals and leaves the water with no buffering capacity to keep the pH stable.  An unstable pH is a known cause of stress to fish and should be avoided.  It is necessary, therefore, to reconstitute RO water.  It can be mixed with commercial products or tap water to create your desired pH and added to your tank.  If you wish to test your tap water or reconstituted RO water, choose an aquarium water testing kit.

Good luck with your new tank!

Cucumber My fish like it best when peeled.  I remove the very soft centre and slide a spoon through.  This weighs the cucumber down to the bottom of the tank.  To soften the cucumber, you can boil a large slice for 1 minute (if the slice is too narrow, it will fall apart).

Frozen peas These are much loved by my fish.  I boil them, allow them to cool and removed the outer shell.

Romaine lettuce This is another food which my fish adore.  I boil a leaf for  1 minute, allow it to cool and use a vegetable clip to attach it to the side of my tank.

Banana This is not so popular in my tank.  I fed it raw and sliced but the fish were not very interested.  Still, it’s always good to experiment.  I understand that some fish love it.

Courgettes Slice, boil until soft, cool and serve.

Prawns These are very popular in my tank.  I use fresh or defrosted prawns, remove the shell, chop up and rinse before offering it to my fish.  It never lasts long!

Broccoli stem Slice, boil and cool.

Sprouts Boil and cool.

Remove foods from tank after 24hrs to avoid polluting.

A number of factors conspired (in my opinion) and contributed to what I perceive to be a persistant bullying problem in my aquarium.  I chose to add a group of seven botia sidthimunki (dwarf loaches) to my tank.  I researched first and decided that their small size and active yet peaceful nature would make them a good choice for my community aquarium.  Indeed, they are eye-catching and fun-loving fish.  Once added to my tank, they fitted in perfectly.  This continued for some months.  However, in this time, one of the loaches had grown particularly rotund.  I assumed he was probably dominant as he appeared be fulfilling a leadership role among the dwarf loach community.  At this point, I lost one of a pair of angelfish.  The dwarf loach began chasing the remaining angelfish.  The loach in question does not chase any other fish.  The other dwarf loaches generally will not get involved.

I wonder if I should have foreseen an issue between my dwarf loach and angelfish.  Much as I am a huge fan of botia sidthimunki, I am thinking that the most responsible way forward would be to rehome the loaches.  Do you agree?

The interior glass of a fish tank can become obscured by algae.  This can be easily removed with an algae scraper.  On a glass tank, use a scraper with a metal blade.

The exterior glass should not be cleaned with conventional glass cleaners as they contain chemicals which can pollute aquariums.  Specialist wipes are available for cleaning the exterior glass of aquariums.  Vinegar and water may be used as an alternative.

Advantages:

Wood will lower the water’s pH level.  As such, it is particularly useful for fish who prefer acidic water (eg angelfish).

Some fish, such as plecos, need wood as part of their natural diet.

Pieces of wood can provide excellent hiding places, prime spawning spots and natural territorial boundaries for fish.

Disadvantages:

Tannins will discolour water, turning it yellow-brown.  This usually fades over time.

It is necessary to soak or boil the wood to enable it to sink.  This can take weeks or even months.

Wood can harbour fish excrement, particularly underneath, which will need cleaning.

Lowering the pH is problematic for fish who enjoy a high pH (eg African cichlids).

Recently, I sadly lost one of a pair of freshwater angelfish.  I have read that the remaining angelfish could stop eating with the worst case scenario being its death.  However, I have also heard that the remaining angelfish may not bond with a new angel and could become aggressive and territorial.  I sought professional help and was advised that the decision would always be a gamble as it would be impossible to predict the behaviour of the fish.  Have you found yourself in a similar position?  Did you replace the angelfish?  What were your experiences?

After 7 days, I’d given up hope of any response. It was at this point that I got a reply stating that Tetra has changed the way in which it’s Customer Services department operate. I was given a number to call. It seemed to be the case that I was put through to a call centre in Germany. Anyway, I did my best to explain the problem (again!) and was told I would receive another lid within five working days. I explained that I had received a replacement previously and it had become apparent that one of the plastic screws which forms the hinge was cracked. This had made it very difficult to fit my previous replacement and I wasn’t keen to go through that again. I asked if I could be sent an additional plastic screw. The lady with whom I was speaking said that she would check if this might be possible but recommended that I go to a DIY shop and see if I could find a screw to fit the lid. At this point, I silently vowed never to purchase another Tetra product (shame as their glass scraper worked wonders on my algae!).

Anyway, I’m looking forward to receiving my new lid in the next few days. Hopefully, it will be a case of ‘third time lucky’!

Here’s what I did:

I took all of the plants out of my tank and removed all affected leaves and discarded all affected plant matter. Bizarrely, some plants were severly compromised by the algae but others were not affected at all. Then, I selected additional fast growing plants which consume large amounts of nutrients. This prevents the algae from using the nutrients itself to promote it’s own growth. I also added some floating plants to control the amount of light entering the tank.

With the plants out of the tank, I removed as much algae as possible from the sides of aquarium. I used an algae scraper and an algae cloth. This was tough work as I found the algae to be particularly stubborn. It took some time to remove all the beard algae from the sides. Although it was never going to be possible to remove 100% of the algae with the scraper, I settled for the fact that vast amounts had gone.

I used an automatic gravel cleaner to clean the entire base of the tank. As I still had the plants in a bucket, I was able to do a thorough job. Once I had cleaned the substrate, I returned the plants to the tank.

I assumed that, by this stage, the filter was probably harbouring some amount of the algae. So I cleaned the filter and replaced media as appropriate.

Once I had got rid of the majority of the algae, I wanted to keep it away. I enlisted the help of a clean-up crew. I decided on amano shrimps and siamese algae eaters (these grow big so require a large aquarium) to keep algae regrowth at bay. As well as being fantastic to watch, this dynamic duo of species make a formidable team. Algae beware!

I carried out these five steps within a fairly short space of time as I was desperate to get rid of the algae. It may be that it can be successfully eradicated by trying just one or two of these methods. However, I have never had algae this bad – I wanted it gone and to stay gone! Now I am careful not to overfeed fish, minimize natural light entering the tank and use my aquarium lights for no more than 11 hours per day (usually 8 hours per day). Anyway, so far it’s working. The algae hasn’t returned with a vengeance and I’m hopeful for the future!